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The company growing real animal fat without any animals

Aug 01

Hoxton Farms grows real animal fat to ensure that plant-based meats taste as authentic as possible. At đŸ”„THE HEAT, they’re offering the chance to win a meal cooked by a Michelin-starred chef made with their lab-grown fat.

BY JOE ROWAN, August 1 2024

THE HEAT, VOYAGERS.io’s first-ever climate-tech festival, is taking place on Friday September 20 2024 at the extraordinary Harwell Science and Innovation Campus in Oxfordshire.

THE HEAT will be a hands-on, practical, mind-expanding, friendship-building, exploratory, curiosity-led, science-based, creative, artistic, participatory, decentralised, experimental, edgy, live, risky, urgent and unpredictable gathering of the talented people working on climate technologies. THE HEAT is not a conference. Don’t expect dull panels or awful coffee. Instead, come to make new friends, experience science in action, learn and share your knowledge, inspire and be inspired. Bring your most engaged and curious festival mindset.

Hoxton Farms grows real animal fat to ensure that plant-based meats taste as authentic as possible. At đŸ”„THE HEAT, they’re offering the chance to win a meal cooked by a Michelin-starred chef made with their lab-grown fat.

🧠 Learn more about Hoxton Farms in our article below and at https://hoxtonfarms.com/ and come meet the team at đŸ”„THE HEAT on September 20 2024 at Harwell Science and Innovation Campus.

Alternative meat has a taste problem: made without animal fat, it often lacks the authentic texture and mouthfeel of “real” meat. Hoxton Farms solves this by producing genuine animal fat as a food ingredient — just fat that’s been cultivated in a lab rather than taken from a dead animal.

So, how does Hoxton Farms do it? It starts off with the cells of the animal whose fat they are trying to grow – currently, for example, they are focusing on pork fat. These cells are then placed in bioreactors, large tanks where there is food for the cells and enough oxygen to optimise growth. After about two weeks, the food for the cells is changed, and they are triggered to start turning into fat cells. Rather than doubling, they increase in size, and after another two weeks they are ready to be harvested – removed, washed, and ready to eat.

Hoxton Farms grew from its co-founders’ interest in cooking. Having known each other since they were at nursery in North London, Ed Steele and Max Jamilly, both 32, came up with the idea for the company when the latter started growing cells in the lab as part of his PhD, and asked himself what they might taste like. “We both cook a lot, and when you cook with most plant-based products, they just don’t cook in the way you’d expect them to. They don’t have the same sizzle in the pan, they don’t give off the same smell and aromas when they’re cooking, and we always knew that was because they didn’t have the right fat,” Steele says. “So we started putting traditional animal fat – pork fat and beef fat – into plant-based products, to see if that would make a difference to the taste of the products, and it dramatically improved them and got us excited.” Soon after, they founded the startup.

Hoxton Farms’ co-founders, Ed Steele (right) and Max Jamilly (left)

Before Hoxton Farms, Steele studied Mathematics at Oxford University and Imperial College London, before working as a machine-learning researcher at the London fintech Thought Machine. After that he helped one of his professors from Oxford to set up a new company providing mathematical modelling and data analysis in industries ranging from genetics, to sport, legal tech, and finance. Jamilly, on the other hand, worked as a consultant for health tech startup Jelly Drops and food tech startup Legendairy Foods after attaining his PhD in synthetic biology from Oxford University.

The startup is named ‘Hoxton Farms’ because Steele and Jamilly came up with the idea in a pub in Hoxton, in North-East London, however it also appears to be a case of nominative determinism. “We later found out that the name Hoxton actually comes from the Anglo-Saxon ‘Hogs’ town’, because it’s the area just outside of the City of London where the pigs were kept. It felt like the right name for us,” Steele says. 

The company has made beef fat before too, and plans on working with chicken, lamb, and fish. Its new product development chef, Josh Hatfield, used to run the Michelin-starred Mexican restaurant Kol in Marylebone, London, and has made pork belly, bacon, meatballs, Xiaolongbao (a soup dumpling where the fat is both inside and outside), sausage rolls, and ramen, where the soup base contains the fat and has pork belly on top too.

The 40-45 strong company raised its Series A financing of roughly $22 million around 18 months ago, and is now looking to get regulatory approval so that its cultivated pork fat can be used by plant-based meat companies. “What we’re trying to do here is not just build a company that makes a profit, and can get some products on some supermarket shelves, but really, we’re trying to change the way that people eat, and if we’re going to do that we do need to get to a really, really large scale. So that’s the goal,” Steele says.

If you buy some of Hoxton Farms’ merchandise at THE HEAT, you’ll be entered into a raffle whose prize is a meal at the company’s headquarters in North-East London prepared by its Michelin-starred chef Hatfield. All proceeds from this will go to Hackney Food Bank, a local charity that helps ensure people have access to food.

Learn more about Hoxton Farms at HoxtonFarms.com and come meet the team at THE HEAT on September 20 2024 at Harwell Science and Innovation Campus near Oxford (more at THEHEAT.io).